So ziemlich jeder hat heutzutage eine Kamera in der Hosentasche, da fast jedes Smartphone einigermaßen gute Fotos schießen kannst. Das hat allerdings nur in den seltensten Fällen wirklich was mit Fotografie zu tun, sondern ist meistens eher „Knipserei“.
Die Fotografie ist ein wirklich schönes Hobby und wenn du es lernen möchtest, ist das ein toller Vorsatz! In meinem ausführlichen Leitfaden wirst du alles erfahren, um einen einfachen und schnellen Einstieg in die Fotografie zu finden.
Ich zeige dir, welches Equipment du benötigst, erkläre dir die wichtigsten Grundlagen der Fotografie, alles über Belichtung und Komposition bis hin zur Nachbearbeitung. Also, schnappe dir einen Kaffee und eine Kamera! Dann können wir auch schon loslegen!
Kleiner Tipp: Speichere dir meinen Artikel als Lesezeichen oder mache Screenshots von wichtigen Abschnitten! So kannst du immer wieder darauf zurückgreifen, wenn du mal nicht weiter weißt.
1. Foto-Ausrüstung
Kameras
Digitale Spiegelreflexkameras (DSLR)
Digitale Spiegelreflexkameras, auch DSLRs genannt, waren lange Zeit bei vielen Fotografen sehr beliebt. Auch heute fotografieren noch viele mit ihnen, wobei spiegellose Kameras die DSLRs seit einigen Jahren nach und nach ablösen.
DSLRs gehören zu den sogenannten Systemkameras. Das heißt, dass du das Objektiv ohne großen Aufwand wechseln kannst. So kannst du je nach Situation zu einer höheren oder niedrigeren Brennweite greifen und bleibst immer flexibel.
Spiegelreflexkameras arbeiten mit einem Spiegelmechanismus, der das Licht vom Objektiv in einen optischen Sucher leitet. Wenn du den Auslöser betätigst, klappt dieser Spiegel hoch und das Licht trifft auf den Sensor, der so ein Bild aufnimmt.
DSLRs bieten auch heute noch eine top Bildqualität, sind vielseitig einsetzbar und die Auswahl an guten (und mittlerweile preiswerten) Objektiven ist riesig.
DSLRs haben außerdem häufig eine etwas längere Akkulaufzeit im Vergleich zu spiegellosen Kameras, da der optische Sucher weniger Energie benötigt.
Spiegellose Systemkameras (Mirrorless)
Spiegellose Systemkameras sind die moderne Alternative zu DSLRs. Wie der Name schon sagt, funktionieren sie ganz ohne aufwendigen Spiegelmechanismus. Das Licht fällt hier direkt auf den Bildsensor. Das Bild wird dann in einem elektronischen Sucher oder auf dem Display angezeigt.
Da der Spiegel wegfällt, sind sie meist deutlich kompakter und leichter als DSLRs. Auch in puncto Bildqualität können spiegellose Kameras den DSLRs locker das Wasser reichen. Es ist also kein Wunder, dass die spiegellosen Kameras, die Spiegelreflexkameras seit einigen Jahren ablösen.
Ein sehr großer Vorteil von spiegellosen Kameras ist, dass du dein finales Bild schon vor der Aufnahme im elektronischen Sucher oder auf dem Display sehen kannst. Veränderst du also zum Beispiel die Blende, kannst du die Auswirkungen auf Schärfentiefe und Helligkeit schon vor der Aufnahme sehen.
Kompaktkameras
Kompaktkameras sind noch kleiner und leichter, als spiegellose Kameras. Sie haben häufige fest verbaute Objektive und sind daher ideal für Anfänger, die eine unkomplizierte Kamera für viele Gelegenheiten suchen.
Obwohl sie natürlich nicht die gleiche Bildqualität wie DSLRs oder spiegellose Systemkameras bieten, sind sie dennoch eine gute Wahl für spontane Schnappschüsse oder unterwegs.
Ein sehr großer Vorteil von Kompaktkameras ist — wer hätte es gedacht — ihre Kompaktheit. Sie lassen sich einfach verstauen, nehmen unterwegs nicht viel Platz weg und sind super leicht.
Die meisten Kompaktkameras verfügen über solide Zoomobjektive, die aber natürlich nicht an die Qualität der Objektive von Systemkameras herankommen. Trotzdem kannst du mit ihnen richtig schöne Fotos schießen, wenn du nicht so viel Geld für eine teure Kamera ausgeben möchtest.
Objektive
Festbrennweiten
Festbrennweiten haben, wie der Name schon verrät, eine fixe Brennweite. Das bedeutet, dass du mit ihnen nicht zoomen kannst. Festbrennweiten haben oft eine bessere Bildqualität und sind lichtstärker als Zoomobjektive, was an ihrer simpleren Bauweise liegt. Das bedeutet, dass du mit ihnen in Situationen mit weniger Licht bessere Bilder aufnehmen kannst. Gerade für Porträts, Detailaufnahmen oder Landschaftsaufnahmen eignen sich Festbrennweiten besonders gut.
Eine besonders beliebte Festbrennweite ist das 50mm-Objektiv. Es bietet nämlich eine Perspektive, die der des menschlichen Auges am nächsten kommt. Es eignet sich für eine Vielzahl von Motiven und ist ein gutes Allroundobjektiv. Dank der großen Blendenöffnung (z.B. f/1.8) kannst du auch bei sehr schwachem Licht gleichmäßig belichtete Fotos schießen und darüber hinaus eine schöne Hintergrundunschärfe (Bokeh) erzeugen.
In meinen Augen ist eine gute Festbrennweite das perfekte Objektiv für Einsteiger. Mit einer Festbrennweite kannst du nämlich nicht einfach zoomen, sondern musst dir genau überlegen, wo du dich hinstellst, um einen bestimmten Bildausschnitt zu erreichen. Das fördert die „fotografische Intelligenz“ — so nenne ich das jetzt einfach mal — ungemein! Außerdem sind Festbrennweiten meist günstiger und du hast von Anfang an eine Top Bildqualität! Mein erstes Objektiv war ein 50 mm-Objektiv mit einer Blende von f/1.8 und es ist immer noch mein absolutes Lieblingsobjektiv.
Zoomobjektive
Zoomobjektive bieten dir eine variabel verstellbare Brennweite. So kannst du zwischen verschiedenen Brennweiten wählen, ohne das Objektiv wechseln zu müssen. Das macht Zooms — die Kurzform für Zoomobjektive — sehr praktisch in Situationen, in denen du schnell reagieren musst. Außerdem musst du so nicht immer so viele Objektive mit dir herumschleppen, was natürlich gerade auf Reisen sehr praktisch sein kann.
Es gibt verschiedene Arten von Zoomobjektiven: Objektive im niedrigeren Brennweitenbereich (z.B. 15-30 mm), im mittleren Brennweitenbereich (z.B. 50-100 mm) oder im hohen Brennweitenbereich (z.B. 70-200 mm). Außerdem gibt es Zooms, mehrere Brennweitenbereiche miteinander verbinden, wie ein 18-300 mm-Objektiv. Diese Objektive werden häufig auch als Reisezooms bezeichnet, da sie alle Brennweitenbereiche abdecken.
Je nachdem, wie viel Geld du für ein Zoomobjektiv ausgeben möchtest, unterscheidet sich das Objektiv von der Bildqualität und Leistung von anderen Objektiven.
„Schlechtere“ Zooms ermöglichen keine große Blendenöffnung. Diese Objektive starten häufig bei f/3.5 oder höher und haben keine fixe Offenblende im gesamten Brennweitenbereich. Zoomst du also mit dem Objektiv, kannst du die Blende eventuell nur noch bis f/6.3 öffnen, was sich natürlich negativ auf Bildqualität und Belichtung auswirkt.
Investierst du hingegen mehr Geld in ein gutes Zoomobjektiv — und das kann wirklich teuer werden — hast du häufig eine große Offenblende von f/2.8 oder niedriger. Außerdem ändert sich diese Blende auch nicht, egal wie viel du heran- oder herauszoomst.
Weitwinkelobjektive
Weitwinkelobjektive haben eine kurze, also niedrige, Brennweite und einen großen Bildwinkel. Das heißt, dass sie besonders viel von einer Szene erfassen können. Sie sind daher besonders für Landschaftsaufnahmen, Architektur oder Innenräume geeignet, da du mit ihnen einfach mehr aufs Bild bekommst.
Weitwinkelobjektive gibt es natürlich sowohl als Festbrennweiten, wie 20 mm oder als Zoomobjektive, z.B. 15-30 mm. Generell gelten Objektive mit einer Brennweite von unter 35 mm als Weitwinkelobjektive. Objektive, die eine Brennweite von unter 20 mm haben, sogar als Ultra-Weitwinkelobjektive.
Ein Weitwinkelobjektiv kann auch interessante Perspektiven erzeugen, indem es nahe Objekte größer und ferne Objekte kleiner erscheinen lässt. Das kannst gut für deine Fotos nutzen, um beeindruckende Bilder zu schaffen. Gebäude können durch ein Weitwinkel zum Beispiel viel größer und dadurch mächtiger wirken.
Teleobjektive
Teleobjektive haben eine lange, also hohe, Brennweite und eignen sich besonders gut für Aufnahmen von weit entfernten Motiven. Sie lassen weit entfernte Objekte ganz nah erscheinen.
Als Teleobjektive gelten Objektive mit Brennweiten von 100 mm oder mehr. Auch hier hast du die Wahl zwischen Festbrennweiten, wie 100 mm oder Zooms, wie 70-200 mm. Es gibt sogar Teleobjektive mit 400 mm oder mehr, die schonmal über zehntausend Euro kosten können. Die bezeichnet man dann als Superteleobjektive.
Teleobjektive sind perfekt, um Tiere in freier Wildbahn zu fotografieren, ohne sie dabei großartig zu stören, da du viel weiter entfernt bist. Aufgrund ihrer längeren Brennweite und größeren Größe sind sie in der Regel schwerer und erfordern oft ein Stativ, um Verwacklungen zu vermeiden.
Teleobjektive können häufig ein schönes Bokeh zu erzeugen, indem sie den Hintergrund unscharf machen. Dies ist besonders nützlich bei Porträt- oder Detailaufnahmen, um das Motiv vom Hintergrund abzuheben.
Zusätzliches Equipment
Stative
Ein Stativ ist ein wichtiges Werkzeug für dich als Fotografen. Es hilft nämlich, die Kamera stabil zu halten und Verwacklungen zu vermeiden. Gerade bei langen Belichtungszeiten ist das sehr wichtig. Es gibt verschiedene Arten von Stativen, von kleinen Reise-Stativen bis hin zu großen, robusten Modellen für professionelle Anwendungen. Ein gutes Stativ sollte dabei möglichst stabil, gleichzeitig aber auch leicht zu transportieren sein. Achte darauf, dass es eine gute Tragkraft hat, um deine Kamera und das schwere Objektiv zu halten.
Fernauslöser
Ein Fernauslöser ermöglicht es dir, deine Kamera auch aus der Ferne auszulösen, ohne sie dabei zu berühren. Das ist besonders bei Langzeitbelichtungen sehr hilfreich, da selbst der kleinste Wackler dein ganzes Bild zerstören könnte. Es gibt kabelgebundene und kabellose Fernauslöer, die jeweils ihre eigenen Vorteile bieten. Ich würde dir allerdings einen Kabellosen empfehlen, da du so noch weniger Kontakt zur Kamera hast.
Gute Fernauslöser bieten dir auch Funktionen wie den Bulb-Modus für sehr lange Belichtungszeiten und die Möglichkeit, mehrere Bilder in kurzen Intervallen aufzunehmen.
Kamerataschen
Eine gute Kameratasche schützt deine Ausrüstung vor Schäden und erleichtert dir außerdem den Transport. Es gibt verschiedene Arten von Kamerataschen, wie Schultertaschen oder Rucksäcke. Wähle eine Tasche, die groß genug ist, um dein komplettes Equipment darin zu verstauen, gleichzeitig aber auch möglichst bequem zu tragen ist.
Ich habe mich für einen Kamerarucksack entschieden, weil das gerade bei längeren Ausflügen einfach am bequemsten ist. Außerdem passt in einen Rucksack eine ganze Menge rein und ich kann neben meinem Kamerazeug auch meine Drohne und mein Laptop immer bequem mitnehmen.
Speicherkarten
Speicherkarten sind essenziell, um deine Fotos zu speichern. Achte darauf, immer genügend Speicherkarten dabei zu haben. Wähle am besten Speicherkarten mit einer Kapazität von mindestens 64 GB, damit du im RAW-Format fotografieren kannst, ohne dir dabei Gedanken machen zu müssen, ob dein Speicherplatz auch ausreicht.
Ersatzakkus
Es ist immer eine gute Idee, einen oder mehrere Ersatzakkus dabei zu haben. Nichts ist frustrierender, als während des Fotografierens keinen Akku mehr zu haben. Achte darauf, deine Akkus regelmäßig zu laden. Im Internet findest du häufig Sets mit mehreren Akkus und einem praktischen Ladegerät, um alle Akkus gleichzeitig aufzuladen. Das spart eine Menge Stress.
Reinigungszubehör
Die Pflege deiner Ausrüstung ist sehr wichtig, damit du lange etwas von deinem Equipment hast. Ein kleiner Blasebalg, Mikrofasertücher und spezielle Reinigungssprays helfen dir, Staub und Schmutz von deinem Objektiv und Kamerasensor zu entfernen. Zum Glück musst du dir das nicht alles selbst zusammensuchen, sonder es gibt Sets von verschiedenen Herstellern, die alle wichtigen Reinigungsmittel für Kameras enthalten. Die kann ich dir wirklich ans Herz legen und sie kosten nichtmal besonders viel.
How to Identify a Good Travel Photo
To find a meaningful introduction to the comprehensive topic of travel photography, let’s start by looking at how to identify a good photo in the first place. As we all know, beauty is always in the eye of the beholder and this is also true in photography. Nevertheless, there are some criteria that we find very aesthetic and appealing. I’ve boiled it down to five points, which we’ll now simply call the Big Five of photography:
Mood – Does the shot reflect the vibe of the place being shot?
Composition – How is the image structured?
Light – Is the light appropriate and is the image too bright or dark?
Emotions – What feeling does the picture create in the viewer?
Sharpness – Is everything that should be recognizable clearly visible?
Of course, these five points only serve as a kind of guide to taking a good photo. Of course, it also depends on your own photographic style, which you will certainly develop step by step. But keep these points in mind to make it easier to get started with travel photography and to judge more quickly whether you like a picture or not.
In the next few chapters, we will encounter the Big Five again and again and you will learn how to master each of these points in order to take good travel photos.
Camera Gear
Important Camera Gear for Traveling
Let’s start with the tool without which shooting is quite tricky: the camera or camera gear in general. First of all, the camera is not the factor that has the greatest influence on your photos. Beginners in particular tend to want the best of the best and what’s the best way to get it? Of course: with the most expensive camera you can afford. Questions like „What camera did you take this photo with?“ are not uncommon. You can find out why this is fundamentally the wrong approach in the following lines.
People who haven’t had much to do with photography before assume that expensive cameras will automatically create better pictures. This is a misconception that you should definitely forget, as the opposite is often the case. The operation of professional, expensive cameras is designed for experienced photographers and beginners are often not guided as much. This means that photography is more difficult and a lot of prior knowledge is required for good results.
A cheap camera, on the other hand, will not create bad pictures. After all, you decide what you want to shoot and what you like, not your camera. For this reason, you should start choosing photographic equipment that is not too advanced so that you can master it quickly and handle it well.
Your gear should also be tailored to the very specific requirements of travel photography. And so that you understand exactly what I mean by this, I would like to help you select the right camera equipment for you with the following gear recommendations.
Camera
Even though the camera is the heart of photography, it is not nearly as crucial for good image quality and beautiful photos as you might think. The cameras from the major camera brands are all of a similar quality level and so the decision as to which brand you prefer is more a matter of taste. In terms of functions, the brands and their models only differ in a few respects.
But it’s important that you choose a camera that allows you to change the lens to use different focal length ranges and also allows you to shoot in manual mode. This means you can set parameters like the aperture, shutter speed or ISO yourself when shooting, which offers you an extremely wide range of options for creative photos.
Cameras that allow you to change the lens are called system cameras. You can simply change the lens and attach another one to your camera body. System cameras are divided into (digital) single-lens reflex cameras (DSLR) and mirrorless cameras (DSLM). As mirrorless cameras are the evolution of SLR cameras and are also more compact and lighter, I would recommend a mirrorless camera.
The camera market is quite confusing and there are many different manufacturers and models. To make it a little easier for you to find your own camera, I’ve written a step-by-step guide to help you find the right camera.
Find out more about the right camera in my detailed article: Best Travel Cameras
Lenses
In my opinion, far too much focus is placed on the camera, while the lens is ignored. The lens is very, very important for taking good photos. So my rule is: it’s better to buy a really good lens and a camera that fulfills its purpose than the other way around. After all, a camera can only process the information that the lens provides it with. So focus on the lens and not on the camera body.
But how do you know if a lens is good or bad? You can usually tell by looking at the price. Good lenses simply cost more money than bad ones. How expensive a lens is usually depends on the aperture and the quality of the lens.
Of course, you don’t need a very special lens to get started and. But I wouldn’t recommend you start shooting with a kit lens. This is the lens that comes with many camera as a bundle. Better choose a good lens right from the start.
Read my Article on this Topic: Don’t buy a kit lens! Here’s Why
Alternatively, you can also read my detailed lens guide, in which you can find out step by step what you should look out for when choosing your travel lens.
Find out more about the right lenses in my detailed article: Best Travel Lenses
Tripod
A tripod is not one of the first things you should buy as a budding travel photographer, but I would still advise you to get one as it expands your photographic possibilities immensely. Especially if you want to shoot at dusk and have to work with higher exposure times, you will hardly be able to do without a tripod.
Especially in poor lighting conditions, you can’t take sharp pictures without a tripod for your camera. I recommend a robust but lightweight carbon fiber travel tripod that is of good quality and can also be extended so it’s the perfect companion for a wide range of situations.
My Travel Tripod Recommendation: Rollei Compact Traveler No. 1 Carbon
Filters
Camera filters belong more in the category of equipment that you won’t need right at the start, as you simply don’t know what to do with them at the beginning. Meaning, if you’re still a complete beginner, you can skip this point for now. Filters are used to change the light that falls through the lens onto your sensor in order to optimize the shot. They are usually attached directly in front of the lens.
Filters are used for a wide variety of situations: Polarizing filters ensure that water surfaces no longer reflect as strongly and at the same time create a higher contrast and more saturation. A gray filter allows longer exposure times, even in the middle of the day, so you can shoot rivers, for example. A graduated filter allows you to balance out a sky that is too bright and a ground that is too dark so that both are optimally exposed.
As you can see, there are many different ways to use camera filters and they can be a great help if you want to take good photos.
Camera Backpack
Travel photographers in particular should buy a good, more compact camera bag, ideally a camera backpack. This not only protects your valuable equipment, but also creates a comfortable way of transporting it from A to B. If you like hiking or simply walk a lot, it’s very convenient if you can simply stow your camera away when you don’t want to shoot, but just want to enjoy nature.
Ideally, you should choose a camera backpack that is comfortable, well protected against water and has a flexible interior layout to allow you to adapt it perfectly to the size of your equipment. Ideally, it should also be compact enough so you can take it on the plane as hand luggage, but that’s not a must. A tip from me: don’t save on the camera backpack, your expensive equipment should always be well protected.
My Travel Camera Backpack Recommendation: K&F Concept Camera Backpack
Replacement Batteries
Trust me when I tell you that there are few moments as annoying as when you discover a perfect photo subject and then realize your camera has run out of battery. So make sure you have enough replacement batteries and a suitable charger to charge them all at the same time. Incidentally, the batteries do not have to be from the camera brand itself. There are many third-party brands that offer cheap alternatives so you don’t have to spend so much money on new batteries. That way, you won’t have to worry about your camera running out of power when you’re traveling. I can really recommend this set.
Replacement Memory Cards
Memory cards are similar to batteries. During a trip, you can quickly take several thousand photos in different places and it would really hurt if you were limited by a lack of storage space, wouldn’t it? So make sure you always travel with enough storage space. As modern cameras record large amounts of data, you should make sure you have a high storage capacity, such as 128 GB. A high read and write speed is important for quick storage and transfer of image files.
My Memory Card Recommendation: SanDisk Extreme PRO 128 GB
Camera Cleaning Kit
On vacation, your camera gets around a lot and may be affected by sun, rain, snow or dust. The first basic rule is, of course, to take care of your photo equipment as well as you can. But you will hardly be able to prevent your camera from getting dirty in the long run. So make sure you get yourself a cleaning kit to keep your camera nice and clean. They really don’t cost much and can extend the life of your camera significantly.
My Cleaning Kit Recommendation: Rollei Camera Cleaning Kit
Remote Shutter Release
A remote shutter release is not a must-have accessory, but it can be a very good tool in certain situations. Especially if you like to take long exposures, it is important that the shutter is released without blurring. This is no problem at all with a remote shutter release. If you like shooting wildlife, it is also helpful to operate the camera from a slightly further distance. A simple remote shutter release costs just a few euros and is a great addition to your gear.
My Recommendation: Rollei Wireless Remote Shutter Release (select your Camera Brand)
Only pack the Essentials
You’ve already chosen your camera equipment for traveling. But before each trip, think about what you want to shoot and what equipment you need. Especially if you have several lenses over time, you should only ever pack the essentials. It can be quite annoying in the long run if you always have to carry everything around with you and, on the other hand, you are always well prepared for the respective situation.
Which gear you should pack for which trip depends on what you’re planning to do. If you’re going on a hiking trip, it’s certainly not very wise to pack four different lenses and two camera bodies. I would rather limit it to one or two lenses, which will save you a lot of weight and space. And as already mentioned, always remember to pack enough batteries and memory cards so that you can take as many photos as you like.
Important Camera Settings and Functions
You could make it easy for yourself and shoot in automatic mode all the time and probably end up with pictures that are okay, meaning why should you bother learning all the camera settings and what they do? The answer to this question is relatively simple: because you don’t want to take pictures that are just okay. You want to learn how to shoot properly and bring back great photos from your trips. That’s why in this article we’ll take a detailed look at how to operate a camera and what effects each function has on your image.
Aperture
Influence of Aperture on Exposure
The aperture is the iris of your lens, and consists of several blades that can be opened or closed mechanically. The choice of aperture changes the amount of light that falls on the sensor. When the aperture is closed, less light falls on the sensor of your camera and more light when the aperture is open. The f-number is always indicated with the suffix „f“, also known as f-stop. The f-stop series starts with the number 1 and multiplies by √2 in each step. It then looks like this:
| f/1.4 | f/2 | f/2.8 | f/4 | f/5.6 | f/8 | f/11 | f/16 | f/22 |
This means that a low aperture value lets in a lot of light and a higher aperture value lets in less light. Keep this in mind when shooting. From one f-stop to the next, the amount of light that is let through is halved. Meaning, if you change the aperture from f/2.8 to f/4, only half as much light will pass through. Conversely, an aperture of f/4 lets twice as much light through the lens like f/5.6.
As you are probably shooting digitally, you can simply operate the aperture using one of the control dials on your camera. With analog cameras, the aperture is controlled directly via a ring on the lens.
Changing the Depth of Field with the Aperture
The better your lens is, the wider you can open its aperture. Very good lenses have apertures of f/1.8 or even lower and normal lenses tend to be f/4.
The wider you can open the aperture, the shallower the depth of field of your subject, meaning the area of your image that is razor sharp. Now you might be thinking, why would you shoot with less depth of field if nothing is in focus? It’s simple: you can create a beautiful blurred background, also known as bokeh, which nicely isolates your subject. Of course, a shallow depth of field is not exactly suitable for landscape photography, but rather for portraits, animal photography or other situations in which you are shooting a single subject.
If, on the other hand, you prefer to shoot landscapes, you should close your aperture further in order to focus the largest possible area of your photo. This will give you a much higher depth of field and the foreground and background will be equally sharp. Feel free to play around with your aperture and see how the subject changes when you change the aperture.
But before you always use the smallest aperture, meaning f/22 for example, so that the entire image is nice and sharp, I would like to give you an important tip. The lower you set the aperture, meaning the less light comes through, the more diffraction blur is created. Diffraction blur occurs when the light is refracted at the aperture blades. This causes the image to become increasingly blurred, which is of course not so nice.
But if a higher depth of field is very important to you, you should try out at which aperture stop your camera is sharpest with the respective lens. This is usually between 2 and 3 f-stops below the open aperture. As a result, you should find a good compromise between the depth of field and the diffraction blur. This is called the optimum aperture. This is in the middle aperture range, usually between f/8 or f/11, depending on the lens.
Find out more about the Aperture in my detailed Article: Camera Aperture Explained
Exposure Time / Shutter Speed
The exposure time or shutter speed is how long your camera’s shutter stays open when you take a photo. It is very important to allow enough light to fall on the camera sensor so that your photo is correctly exposed.
If you are shooting without a tripod, you cannot usually choose very long exposure times as the images will be blurred and out of focus. The shorter the exposure time, the better your camera can compensate for movement from you or the object you want to shoot. For example, if you want to shoot a running dog, you should choose a very short exposure time so that the dog remains sharp even when it’s moving. If, on the other hand, you want to shoot the stars at night, you will need to choose a longer exposure time and also use a tripod so that enough light hits the sensor and the image is correctly exposed.
You can set the exposure time either directly in the menu or on one of the control dials on your camera. You can usually choose between exposure times of 1/8000 (meaning one eight-thousandth of a second) up to 30 seconds. If the fraction, such as 1/8000, is not written out in full, it is simply displayed with the number 8000 in the menu. But it still means 1/8000 and not 8000 seconds (that would be a bit long). To avoid confusion, whole seconds are always indicated with the “ symbol.
For longer exposures, you can use either Bulb or Time mode, in which you can set the exposure time yourself. This allows you to expose for several minutes without any problems if required.
Find out more about the shutter speed in my detailed Article: Shutter Speed Explained
ISO
The ISO determines how sensitive the camera sensor is. If you select a higher ISO number, the light sensitivity increases and your image becomes brighter. If you select a low ISO, the exact opposite happens and your image becomes darker. By increasing the ISO, the exposure time can be shortened, which can be very practical in poor lighting conditions. Doubling the ISO, e.g. from 100 to 200, roughly halves the exposure time.
With most modern cameras, you can also set an automatic ISO. This means you still have full control over the exposure time and aperture, but your camera is constantly checking whether the image is correctly exposed. But I would advise you to use the ISO as little as possible and keep the ISO number as low as you can. Higher ISO numbers create image noise, the image becomes grainy and the quality drops. This means always keep the ISO as low as possible to get the most out of your shots.
Find out more about the ISO in my detailed Article: How to use Camera ISO
Focal Length
Although the focal length has nothing directly to do with the camera, but with the lens that is attached to it, it still has one of the most important influences on your photo. The focal length determines the angle of view that a lens can capture and is specified in millimetres. A low focal length of 20mm is called a wide angle lens and the angle of view is therefore larger. A lens with a focal length of 200mm is called a telephoto lens and has a small angle of view. A normal focal length means about 50mm, which roughly corresponds to the angle of view of the human eye.
Find out more about the Focal Length in my detailed Article: Focal Length Explained
Camera Sensor
In addition to the focal length, the sensor of your camera also has a significant influence on what its angle of view is like. The camera sensor is the black box that is visible when you don’t have the lens on your camera and is very sensitive. It captures the light and converts it into electrical signals, which then produce your image.
There are different types of camera sensors, which differ in size. The two best known are probably the APS-C sensor and the full-frame sensor. The full-frame sensor is the larger of the two, but full-frame cameras are also more expensive. They generally offer better image quality if you use good lenses, but they are also larger and can become uncomfortable when traveling.
Cameras with an APS-C sensor, on the other hand, are more compact. Bodies and lenses are much more affordable in the APS-C range and so are very beginner-friendly. So many beginning photographers opt for APS-C cameras. But if you want maximum image quality, a full-frame sensor is the better choice.
Find out more about the Camera Sensor in my detailed Article: Camera Sensors Explained
Camera Modes
Pretty much every digital camera, whether SLR or mirrorless, has a dial on the top where you can set the camera mode you want to shoot in. The following modes are usually available:
AUTO – Full Automatic Mode
In full automatic mode, the camera controls all functions itself. This means that you only have to find a subject and release the shutter. Your camera takes care of the rest. But if you want to shoot as creatively as possible, you should only use this mode if you want to take a quick shot without much effort.
P – Program Automatic
In program automatic mode, the aperture and exposure time are set automatically. You can only set the ISO number yourself. This mode is also not exactly known for allowing a lot of creativity, but is excellent for beginners.
M – Manual Mode
In manual mode, you have full control over the aperture, shutter speed and ISO. You can play with the aperture, expose longer or shorter or change the focus to perfectly suit the subject. Manual mode gives you the most creative freedom.
A / Av – Aperture Priority
In this mode, you only have to select the aperture and your camera always adjusts the exposure time so that the image is correctly exposed. In combination with ISO automatic, this can be particularly helpful if the exposure situation changes frequently but you don’t want to change your aperture.
S / Tv – Shutter Priority
In this mode, you can only adjust the shutter speed manually, while the aperture and, if you wish, the ISO are adjusted automatically. This is useful if you want to freeze the movement of a moving subject.
B – Bulb
I already mentioned bulb mode in the chapter on exposure time. It cannot be set via the mode dial on all cameras, but can often also be controlled via the exposure time itself. In bulb mode, the exposure time can be set to any time, as the camera’s shutter remains open as long as the shutter release button is pressed. So exposure times of several minutes are possible.
Which Camera Mode is the Best?
Of course, you can choose which mode you want to shoot in. But I would advise you not to get too comfortable at the beginning to learn something. So shoot a lot in manual mode at the beginning and learn more about your camera and its functions and photography itself. Then you can always look at the other modes again. Shooting manually is the most fun anyway, I promise you.
Learn more about the Camera Modes in my detailed Article: Camera Modes Explained
Learn to Operate your Camera Blindly
A useful tip is that you should be able to handle your camera blindly and intuitively. Every camera has its own dials for aperture, shutter speed and ISO and you should be able to operate them all by heart. You should also be able to adapt other functions to the respective photo situation without having to think too much. This will not only create a better understanding of your camera and make it easier for you to shoot step by step, but will also ensure that you don’t run out of time at the crucial moment and have to spend minutes trying things out.
Meaning, take a look at the operating instructions for your camera and familiarize yourself with its functions. Try it out and get to know your camera really well. In the next chapter, we’ll explain what you need the various functions for and what they do.
Compositions and Perspectives
Composition in Photography
Why Composition is so Important
You may or may not have come across the term composition before. Composition is about constructing your image in the best possible way so that people like to look at it. You have certainly seen images that automatically caught your eye and then again images that you realized at first glance were not very special. That’s why this chapter is all about how to compose your images correctly in order to captivate the viewer. When used correctly, composition creates a well-balanced image that is also exciting to look at.
Important Composition Rules
The aim of a successful photo composition is to direct the viewer’s attention to the main subject. To achieve this, all image elements are placed in a meaningful way, which summarizes the composition. Beginners or smartphone photographers in particular like to simply place their subject directly in the middle of the photo – you’ve probably done this before. You can do this, but it’s usually not very elegant and the image lacks depth and emotion. So it’s better to follow the design rules that are also used in art to create more elegant images.
Rule of Thirds
The rule of thirds is probably the simplest and so also the most common composition technique. Here, the picture is divided into nine rectangles of equal size by two vertical and two horizontal lines. Important picture elements can then be placed at one of the four resulting intersections to guide the viewer’s attention to them. Incidentally, you can activate the grid for the rule of thirds directly on most modern cameras to optimize your image composition.
Another way to apply the rule of thirds is to highlight a certain section of the image. If you are shooting a landscape, for example, you can place the horizon in the upper third and the landscape in the lower two thirds. In this case, the focus is on the landscape. But if the sky is very interesting, for example a sunset on the beach. Place the horizon in the upper two thirds and the beach in the lower third. Make sure that one of the image sections is significantly larger. If both image sections are the same size, the images will quickly look boring.
Golden Ratio
The golden ratio is one of the oldest image design rules and was already used in ancient Greece. Simply described, the golden ratio is a division of the motif in a ratio of approximately 1/3 to 2/3. If you think of an axis once horizontally and once vertically in this ratio, a grid is created. If important elements are placed at the points of intersection, the viewer’s gaze is subtly directed there. This form of image design is considered to be very harmonious, as the golden ratio is also very common in nature. Meaning it’s ideal for making your pictures as appealing as possible.
Triangular Composition
The triangular composition also has a harmonizing effect. In a triangular composition, you arrange the picture elements, meaning people, animals or objects, in such a way that they form a triangle. The effect of the picture changes depending on how the triangle is arranged. A straight triangle appears more stable, while an angled triangle brings more dynamic into the picture.
Symmetrical Composition
With symmetrical composition, you can break the rule of not placing the main subject of a picture in the center. The central alignment creates a great harmony in a symmetrical motif. Examples of this type of composition are even mountains or trees. Lakes, on whose surface the main motif is perfectly reflected, are also very suitable for this. But make sure that the image is not too cluttered and focuses on the subject that you want to center in order to create the optimal image effect.
Leading Lines
Leading lines are lines in your photos that the viewer can easily follow and serve to guide them through the image. Ideally, these lines should be used in such a way that they lead to the main subject of the picture. For example, this could be a long road leading to a mountain or a footbridge leading to the horizon. The leading lines in your picture do not always have to be straight; natural structures like beaches, sand dunes, rivers or mountain ranges are also well suited to leading the viewer to the main subject and creating a smooth picture effect.
Framing
With framing, you create a natural frame around the main subject in your photo to emphasize it. This creates a real sense of depth for the viewer. This type of composition is very easy to implement and the best thing about it is that you can create exciting images even with rather boring subjects. Here, too, you direct the viewer’s attention to the main subject. You can find frames both in nature and in the city. Whether it’s a crooked tree or a tunnel is meaningless.
Size Relations
Especially if you are shooting very large objects on your trip, for example Skogafoss, a large waterfall in Iceland, it can be difficult to show its enormous size well in a photo. Even if your photo looks good and the waterfall looks impressive, its enormous „power“ doesn’t really come across. It simply looks much more impressive in real life. This is because you don’t just see the waterfall in front of you, you can also hear and even feel the water rushing.
Even if you don’t capture this experience perfectly in your photo, you can create an even better impression for the viewer of how gigantic the waterfall actually is. You can achieve this by including something in your picture that the viewer knows from real life and that serves as a size comparison. People, buildings or animals, for example, are ideal for this. This helps the viewer to better imagine the actual size of your subject, which is actually quite logical, isn’t it?
Want to learn more about Composition? Read my detailed Guide: Composition in Photography Explained
Perspectives
How Perspective Affects your Image
In addition to the composition of the image, you should also think about the angle from which you want to shoot a certain subject before taking a photo. This is another factor that is crucial for a good photo. If you choose the right perspective and use it in a targeted way, it can significantly improve your photo and give it more depth and emotion, while the wrong perspective can make your subject look flat and boring. So I’d like to show you the three most frequently used perspectives that you can use in different situations.
Camera perspective types
Normal Perspective
The normal perspective roughly corresponds to a person’s point of view. Meaning you’re shooting at people’s eye level, so it’s also known as the eye-level perspective. Most of the pictures you find on the internet are probably taken from this angle. This is simply because it is probably the most natural and comfortable perspective. You don’t have to bend down or stretch, you can just point and shoot. But if you only shoot from the normal perspective, you might miss out on opportunities for exciting photos, so a little variety won’t hurt.
Low Angle Perspective
The Low Angle Perspective could provide this variety. Here, the camera is pointed upwards from below and you shoot the subject from below, as if you were a frog looking up. So this perspective is also known as the frog’s-eye view. The low angle perspective makes objects or people appear larger than they actually are, creating a dramatic effect. Buildings or trees that you shoot from this perspective appear very powerful and huge. A really cool effect for certain shots.
High Angle Perspective
The high angle perspective is the exact opposite of the low angle perspective. Here, the camera is pointed downwards from above and you shoot your subjects from above. Meaning you look at the world like a bird, which is why this perspective is also known as the bird’s-eye view. When you shoot from this perspective, subjects appear smaller and you get a better overview of a scene. You don’t even need wings to shoot from this perspective – a tower, mountain or higher building will suffice. Or you can use a drone and take aerial shots from the ground.
Find the Right Perspective when Shooting
Especially in places you’ve never been to before, you’ll have to do a lot of trial and error until you find the perspective that best captures your subject, whether it’s landscapes, people or animals. Personally, I don’t like researching every last detail beforehand and prefer to see what might look best on location. This will also create a more creative approach to your photos and not just look at how other photographers would have shot your subject. This is very important for finding and developing your own photographic style.
Meaning, don’t be afraid to move around and shoot your photo from different angles. At the beginning, you will probably have more difficulty finding the right perspective than with more experience. Simply follow the rules of image composition and find out what the best perspective is for your subject. This will gradually become easier and easier as you progress. But a change of perspective is always good and can completely change the effect of a subject.
Learn more about perspective now: Perspective in Photography Explained
How to find the Right Subject
The Right Subject is Crucial
Good photos stand and fall with the subject they show. This is the same for travel photography. Meaning, if you don’t just want to bring home a few wild snapshots, you should always be clear about what you want to shoot and what you want your photo to look and feel like.
So before I head off to another country, I think carefully about what I can shoot there and where the good spots are for great shots. It sounds a bit time-consuming at first, but it’s really fun and time well spent, I promise you that. I’ll explain how I go about it in the following chapter.
Search for your Photo Spots at Home
As soon as you have chosen your destination, you can start researching where you can best photograph there, what motifs there are in the area, like how to get to the respective locations and finally where you can stay overnight. Of course, I am aware that you may not only want to shoot on your travels, meaning you should also plan what else you can do on your trip besides photography. You can use the internet or Instagram to research good photo spots, but conventional travel guides are also perfect for this.
Make a small list of a few spots that you would like to visit and photograph. This will also help you to plan the timing of your photo trip. You should also indicate on the list what time you want to be at which photo spot in order to have the best light for shooting. Take another look at the spots on Google Maps so you can plan your journey or walk. As soon as you’ve finished planning your photos, find out about any regulations and laws that may apply at the respective locations.
In the last step, you should look for accommodation that is as centrally located as possible near your photo spots so you don’t have to walk or drive too far to a photo location. Think carefully about what you would like to experience on your trip apart from shooting and what else you can do in the area. Are there beaches, hiking trails or similar in the area? That’s even better!
My little guide is only intended to help you and I am of course aware that a lot can happen during a trip. Sometimes the weather at a place might not be like you wanted it to be or you might come across a much more beautiful motif on the way there. This happens and is what makes travel photography so very exciting, you never know what you will encounter or what will happen. Take a relaxed attitude and shoot what you like best. This is the best way to take good photos and have fun with photography.
Explore Photo Spots and be Flexible
Even if you have researched your photo spots down to the smallest detail, you will probably be surprised on location. Locations like waterfalls, sand dunes or mountains are simply more impressive on location than on Google or Instagram. So enjoy the moment first and take a look at the surroundings, who knows if you’ll ever see this place again in your life? This will also help you plan which angles you want to shoot from and what you might like to compose your picture like.
It’s also possible that the conditions on location are completely different to those you imagined at home. Is the weather worse or is the light completely different to what you expected? Maybe you wanted to shoot wildlife on a safari, but no lion wants to get in front of your lens. These are situations that every photographer has to deal with and that you will also experience – the top priority here is flexibility. Think about which shots are still possible and how you can make the best of the situation. These are exactly the situations that make the difference between beginners and professionals in photography.
What I would also like to recommend is that you always shoot with a lot of composure and as little time pressure as possible. Even if your photos go wrong, you shouldn’t get upset about it, but rather find out why and try to do better. This will not only improve your photography skills, but will also help you learn how to take good photos in stressful situations. Good photos take time and you shouldn’t give up just because they don’t look like you imagined.
The Most Important Factor in Photography: Light
Why Light is so Important in Photography
Literally translated, shooting means „drawing with light“ and that’s the reason why light is so important in photography. You can’t take photos without light. Light not only determines how bright or dark your picture is, but also the colors, the mood and the overall appearance. Light can therefore make the difference between impressive and boring images.
Correct Exposure
The basic requirement for a good photo is correct exposure, but what is that anyway? Most photographers are satisfied with their results if the image is balanced, meaning not too bright and not too dark. You want to be able to see everything, but you also don’t want any parts of the image to be too bright. Ideally, the photo you take should come close to what you saw with your eyes on location.
Exposure Metering
Exposure metering in today’s digital cameras does a lot of the work for you you would have had to do manually in the past, but what types of exposure metering are there? There are basically three different types of metering:
Matrix Metering
Matrix metering is preset on most cameras. Here, an average exposure is calculated from the many metering fields of your camera. The aim is to correctly expose as much of the image as possible.
Center-Weighted Metering
Center-weighted metering works like matrix metering, but here the middle part of the image is weighted more heavily on the assumption that the important image elements are located there.
Spot Metering
In contrast to the two other metering methods, spot metering only measures a small circular area of the image. This makes this method very suitable for shooting direct light sources like the sun or the moon
Adjusting the Exposure
Depending on whether you shoot automatically or prefer to set the aperture, shutter speed and ISO yourself, you need to check when the exposure is balanced. Modern cameras offer you several useful tools to help you do this if you want to expose manually.
Light Meter
The light meter is one of the most important tools you should keep an eye on when exposing manually. It shows you how your camera would expose if you were shooting in automatic mode. On a horizontal scale, the camera shows you whether your image is overexposed or underexposed with the current settings. If the image is balanced, the pointer is at 0. If the image is too bright, the pointer moves to the right and if it is too dark, it moves to the left.
Histogram
The histogram is a little more complicated, but it’s not rocket science either. It’s a curve that shows the light distribution of an image. On the left-hand side, this curve starts with black and ends with white on the right-hand side. The horizontal axis indicates the light distribution, while the vertical axis indicates how often the light value occurs. If the curve is to the right, the image is overexposed and if it is to the left, it is underexposed. For an image to be evenly exposed, the histogram should also be reasonably balanced and not lean too much in a particular direction.
Exposure Compensation
Exposure compensation is only relevant for you if you are shooting with automatic exposure. You can use exposure compensation to brighten or darken the image if your camera is exposing incorrectly or if you want to brighten or darken the image on purpose. To do this, simply press the exposure compensation button and adjust with the corresponding dial. Plus is also more light and minus is of course less light. So even in automatic mode, you can still influence how bright or dark you want your image to be.
Characteristics of Light
When you’re shooting on your trip, you usually have to deal with natural light, regardless of whether you’re in the mountains or on the beach. Meaning you are dependent on various factors like the time of day, the season or the weather, which can have a significant impact on your photo. You should therefore understand how different lighting situations can influence your photo and how you should deal with them. The following factors should be considered:
– Light temperature (warm, cold or neutral light)
– Light direction (from the front, from behind, from the side or no direction)
– Brightness (light/dark)
These are all properties that depend on the light source, like the sun or the stars, and their respective position. Factors like the time of year or the weather also have an enormous influence on how the light looks and falls. Even the time of day at which you shoot will have a significant impact on how the light looks in your photo. So it’s also important to always be in the right place at the right time. Even if this doesn’t always work out, you can still increase your chances of taking a really good photo.
Daytime
Golden Hour
You have the best light for photography in the hour after sunrise and the hour before sunset. Photographers often call these times the golden hours. For most photographers, the golden hour is probably the time when they prefer to take photos. In contrast to other times of day, there is no direct sunlight during the golden hour, so the light is more diffused. This ensures that subjects are illuminated in a more beautiful way and so it’s easier to take nice photos. During this time, everything is bathed in a warm, golden light. The duration of the golden hour depends on your location and the current season.
Blue Hour
The counterpart to the Golden Hour is the Blue Hour, which occurs immediately before or after the Golden Hour. This is when the sun has already set or has not yet risen. At these times, the sky becomes an intense and cool shade of blue. But it is still much brighter than at night, which is especially important if you want to take photos. Depending on when you photograph during the blue hour, the sun is still visible on the horizon and yellow-orange tones mix with the blue horizon. The time of the blue hour also varies from season to season and from place to place.
Night Photography
Different photography rules apply at night than during the day. As you have little remaining light from stars or the moon, you have to work with longer exposure times. Without a tripod, photos at night are almost impossible, so always have one with you. At night, of course, you can shoot the stars or the moon very well. Depending on the time of year and where you are on earth, you can take great pictures of the Milky Way. Landscape shots in combination with the stars can also look very atmospheric and impressive. Street photography at night with illuminated stores and busy streets is another way to make the most of your photo vacation. Meaning, if you know how to use a camera, even the night offers many opportunities for great photos.
Weather
Sun
But why are times of day such as the golden or blue hour better for taking photos than a hot sunny noon in June when the sun is particularly high in the sky? The answer has to do with the light. The sun is highest in the sky at midday, which means objects hardly cast any shadows, making them appear emotionless. If they do cast a shadow, it is usually too contrasty and can be irritating rather than looking good. Taking photos in the bright sun can be challenging, but with practice and the right subjects, it is still possible to capture great shots.
Clouds
The appearance of subjects changes when it is cloudy. The clouds act as a natural softbox and diffusing sunlight much better. This results in photo subjects appearing more natural and pleasant to the viewer. In other words, that’s the perfect light for taking photos. So, portraits and long exposures can be captured very easily. A cloudy day is not a reason to leave your camera at home.
Rain
Rain can be an annoying factor in photography. I had photo sessions ruined by rain before. However, instead of complaining about it, try using it to your advantage. Rain can create special and dramatic effects in photos. Additionally, you can capture unique shots in the rain that would not be possible otherwise. Rain can look beautiful with a good lens, low aperture, and short exposure time. Try it out next time it rains!
As you can see, there is no bad weather for shooting, even if the golden and blue hour are extremely suitable for beautiful photos. It’s best to shoot as often as you can and at any time of day to develop your technical skills and you’ll see that you can take good photos even in the bright sunshine.
Seasons
Just like the time of day and the weather, the season of the year in which you shoot has a big impact on the look of your pictures. Weather and season are closely linked and the light also changes constantly throughout the year. Animal and plant life varies with the seasons too and as a budding travel photographer, you should know when you can and can’t shoot what. Then you can plan your future photo trips perfectly.
Spring Photography
Spring is the time of year when nature reawakens and becomes colorful again after winter. The birds are chirping again and flowers are blooming and sprouting everywhere. When the temperatures rise again, shooting is more fun and the desire to travel is naturally much greater. The photo opportunities you have in spring are almost limitless. The light in spring is not yet as harsh as in summer, which is perfect for beautiful shots in nature. Spring is a very good time to shoot blossoming trees, plants and green meadows. The animal world is also more active again and many animal species have offspring. The changeable weather in spring also offers many opportunities for exciting photos, like photos of storms or thunderstorms. Meaning there are plenty of opportunities for atmospheric and impressive pictures.
Summer Photography
Summer is probably the time when most people travel, maybe you do too. Even in summer, you have plenty of opportunities to take great pictures. Sunsets by the sea or in the mountains, the golden morning mood by the river or the Milky Way over the sand dunes are just a few photo ideas. Street photography is also a great way to document your trip. In addition to colorful markets and special cafés, it’s the many different people that make street photography so very special. But make sure that you only shoot people who don’t have a problem with this or who are barely noticeable in a large crowd. It can be a little hotter here and there during the day, so getting up early and staying up late in summer is definitely rewarded, at least if you like shooting.
Fall Photography
Fall is a very colorful season. Many trees slowly lose their leaves, but before that they shine again in a wide variety of colors, which makes them great subjects for pictures. Landscape photography at the golden hour is great fun in the fall and creates atmospheric images. The light in fall is softer than in summer and creates a warmer mood on some days and a cooler mood on others. Depending on where you are in fall, you can take great nature shots, whether in the mountains or by the sea is of course up to you. But keep in mind that it rains more often in fall. But that’s not a problem and rain can create great dramatic effects. Thunderstorms are also not uncommon in fall, meaning keep an eye on the weather forecast and dress appropriately.
Winter Photography
If you are on vacation in more northerly regions in winter, you can take great pictures of snow-covered landscapes. The clear light in winter creates great contrasts. Winter photos at the golden hour create a very special atmosphere. The nights in winter can also be very clear and the stars and moon offer great opportunities for impressive pictures. Depending on your location, you can also see and shoot the Northern Lights, a very special experience even without a camera.
Light Directions
Let’s now move on to the last lesson in the chapter on light, which is about the direction from which the light comes. This may sound strange at first and you may think to yourself, „From above, from the sun“. In most cases, this is quite true, but this lesson is more about the direction the light from the sun or another light source hits your subject.
Front Light
With front light, the light source, meaning usually the sun, is in front of the subject and behind you. This ensures that the subject is well lit in most cases and you don’t have to worry about sun reflections, unless you are shooting reflective objects. Depending on how low the sun is, the long shadows create more depth in the image. So front light is almost a guarantee for very atmospheric pictures. But make sure that your own shadow is not visible in the picture by choosing a suitable framing or positioning yourself with your camera behind a tree or something similar.
Backlight
Backlighting, on the other hand, means that the light source is directly in front of you and behind your subject. In case of doubt, the sun may even be directly visible above or next to your main subject. This can lead to extreme differences in brightness. You must also expect strong sun reflections, so-called flares, in the image. But if these flares are very distracting, you can partially remove them in post-processing. When shooting backlit photos, make sure to use spot metering. It also makes sense to take several photos with different exposure settings and stack them in post-processing in order to obtain a correctly exposed final result.
Side Light
Sunlight coming from the side creates atmospheric light reflections in the landscape and objects like mountains, buildings or bodies of water are beautifully illuminated. But here, too, there can be extreme fluctuations in brightness, but you can reconcile this by taking several shots with different exposure settings.
How to get Sharp Images
Why Sharpness is so Important
In most cases, the sharp area of an image is the area where the viewer’s eye should be drawn to. Meaning, it’s pretty important that you know exactly how to focus on a certain area of a subject to emphasize it and block out the rest. This is exactly what this important chapter is about. Not only will you learn more about the different ways of focusing, but I’ll also give you a few valuable tips on how to use manual focus.
Depth of Field
The depth of field is the area of an image that is reasonably sharp, while the rest is rather blurred. Depth of field is the reason why not everything in an image is in focus or out of focus at the same time. With your lens, you can only focus on a single distance. Objects in front of or behind this area become blurrier the further away they are from the focus point.
But the depth of field of your lens is not fixed and you can adjust it to the respective shooting situation. The aperture is the factor that influences your depth of field the most, which you can adjust at any time. If you shoot with a wide-open aperture, f/1.8, for example, you have a shallow depth of field and your camera can only focus at a short distance. With a shallow depth of field, the main subject is sharply emphasized, while the background is blurred (bokeh). However, if you close the aperture, for example to f/8, you have a significantly greater depth of field. This is helpful if you want to take landscape shots where as large an area as possible needs to be in focus.
But the focal length and the distance to the subject also have a decisive influence on the depth of field. Wide-angle lenses with a short focal length have a very large depth of field, which is ideal for their intended use in photographing large and wide subjects. Lenses with a longer focal length, such as telephoto lenses, have a shallower depth of field and so are more suitable for photographing subjects like birds or plants and highlighting them perfectly through the blurred background.
Meaning, how you set your depth of field perfectly depends on the shooting situation you are in. But it also depends on how you imagine your image and how you want it to look. Depth of field is a creative tool that we as photographers can use to create unique images.
Autofocus
Autofocus helps you to focus your subject optimally so that it’s nice and sharp. This usually works pretty well and the autofocus works more precisely than we humans do. But I would recommend you to determine the focus point yourself. If you’re shooting in autofocus, you can easily set the focus point using the arrow buttons or the small joystick on your camera. This allows you to tell your camera exactly which part of the subject to focus on. I would advise you not to let the camera decide what should be in focus. Always keep an eye on what exactly the camera is focusing on.
With most modern cameras, you can choose between single autofocus (AF-S) and continuous autofocus (AF-C). Single autofocus is good if you are shooting a subject that isn’t moving, while continuous autofocus is very suitable for subjects that move, like animals or athletes. With continuous autofocus, the focus is constantly adjusted as long as you keep the shutter release button pressed.
Manual Focus
The opposite of autofocus is manual focus. Here you have full control over the focus of your camera. You control the manual focus using the focus ring on your lens. The advantage of shooting in manual focus is that you can adjust the focus exactly like you want it. There are a few tricks to ensure that you can always get your main subject perfectly in focus, even with manual focus. Firstly, you can use the magnifying glass button to zoom in on your subject and see if it is in focus. Another useful function is focus peaking, which you can usually activate on modern cameras. This highlights the focused edges in color, which is quite useful.
Hyperfocal Distance
The hyperfocal distance, a rather unwieldy term I know, refers to the distance between the camera and the subject with the greatest depth of field at a certain focal length and a certain aperture. If you keep the hyperfocal distance to your main subject, for example a tree, everything behind the tree will also be in focus. This is very good when taking landscape shots. How far the hyperfocal distance is depends on the focal length and aperture selected. To get the photo sharp in both the foreground and the background, you need to measure the distance between the camera and the foreground. Then set the appropriate aperture and focal length. There are many useful calculators and apps for calculating the hyperfocal distance. I can highly recommend this calculator. Once you have calculated the hyperfocal distance, you can take landscape shots that are razor-sharp down to the smallest detail.
Image Post Processing
Why Post-Process Images at all?
Image processing is the process that follows the actual shooting. But why should you post-process your images at all? Perhaps they are good enough without post-processing? It’s possible that you like your picture even without post-processing and would prefer to leave them just as they are, but post-processing adds the final touches. In post-processing, you can get the full potential out of your photos and adjust colors, exposure and contrast.
To ensure that you can post-process your images to the full extent, you should definitely shoot in RAW format, which can be easily set in the memory settings of your camera. RAW photos are not processed or compressed by your camera, they are like a digital negative you still have to develop. You can edit RAW images using an image editing program and can adjust all the necessary settings until you like the image. JPEG files, on the other hand, are already post-processed by your camera, but then you have less control over how the image looks in the end. So always shoot in RAW format and do the post-processing yourself.
The Right Image Editing Program
To be able to post-process your photos, you first need an image editing program to turn your RAW files into finished images. I use the paid program Lightroom Classic. It’s like Lightroom’s big brother, but Photoshop’s little brother. Lightroom Classic is a more professional version of Lightroom and you can not only sort your images into libraries, but also use the software for your entire image editing workflow. But there are of course many other alternatives that you can take a look at. The important thing is that the program has a user-friendly structure so you can learn it quickly.
How to Start Post Processing
Before you can edit your first image, you need a really good shot you want to invest the time in. You can’t turn every image into a work of art, even if you sometimes wish you could as a photographer. The RAW image should already be pretty good. Think carefully about which picture you want to edit beforehand.
In the actual image processing stage, it’s time to get down to business and you start by aligning the image so it looks good. You can then start adjusting settings like exposure, contrast and colors so they are perfectly suited to the image. This sounds quite simple, but it’s a bit more complex. So I’ve picked out a very detailed article on this topic that explains the entire image editing process down to the smallest detail: Post-Processing Beginners Guide
Practice Makes Perfect
There’s one important thing I’d like to point out to you, because like many things, photography is something you get better at with practice. Your first photos probably won’t be very good, but the more often you shoot and the more you work with your camera, the better your photos will be in the long run. So even when you’re not traveling, you should take your camera with you when you’re out and about. There are also many opportunities to take a good photo in everyday life. This will help you practice using your camera and become a better photographer step by step. So get started right away, and now it’s time to practise, practise, practise!
You’ve Made It!
And that’s it and we’ve come to the end of my travel photography tutorial. I hope you were able to learn a few things that will help you with your next photos.
I’ve summarized the ten most important points from my article for you below. Feel free to save my article as a bookmark so you can return here if you need to look something up.
10 Important Travel Photography Tips
1. Only buy essential camera equipment and upgrade your gear step by step as you gain experience.
2. Learn to control your camera blindly and practise using all important functions like aperture, shutter speed and ISO in the right situations.
3. Shoot in manual mode as often as possible to get a feel for photography.
4. Try out different types of image composition and change perspective to capture your subject in the perfect way.
5. Plan what you want to shoot before you travel and research for good subjects.
6. Take shots at different times of day and night and in different weather conditions and always try to make the best of the situation.
7. Shoot subjects with different light directions and see how the mood changes.
8. Adjust the depth of field depending on what you are shooting.
9. Learn how to post-process images and give them the final touches.
10. Don’t give up if you don’t like your photos. Practice makes perfect!